Roger Williams - Guitar Luthier

Construction Method

I offer this method of construction as an outline example of how I make my hand made instruments.  It lacks details that the novice may require because I use it as a checklist in my workshop.  I find that, because I do a variety of work, it is useful to have this list available so that I do not have to think too long what the next build step is.  I hope it proves useful to you.  Pease e-mail if you require any explanation or elaboration.
Preparation
  • Establish design and define spec.

  • Start a “Build Record”

  • Select materials for major components and decide decoration

  • Retrieve any oversize material for other use e.g. bindings from sides  [Top]

Prepare Neck
  • Select Neck blank and saw into Neck-shaft and Heel-pieces

  • Square up Neck-shaft (thin to 25 mm if necessary)

  • Saw (scarf cut) Head-stock from Neck-shaft piece

  • True gluing faces

  • Glue Head-stock to Neck-shaft

  • Flatten top of Neck-shaft.

  • True-up top of Head-stock flat

  • Knife mark centre-line to top, nut back and front and body-join.

  • Mark and rout Neck re-enforcement slot

  • Prepare Neck re-enforcement

  • Epoxy the Neck re-enforcement

  • Glue the ply cover and plane the cover and neck dead flat  [Top]

Assemble Heel block
  • Number and cut Heel-pieces to size

  • Flatten gluing surfaces

  • Glue Heel-pieces together  [Top]

Shape & Finish Headstock
  • Join and thickness Headstock veneer(s).

  • Shoot Head-stock angle on front edge (Single veneer only)

  • Dowel and glue Head-stock veneer and trim overhang

  • Scrape and sand Head-stock veneer

  • Mark Nut-width and +reduce neck width to +2 mm each side of nut

  • Mark Head-stock and Neck C/L and Head-stock shape (knife)

  • Cut the Headstock outline (+ 1 mm)

  • Mark depth and rout back of Headstock to thickness (nominal 20 mm - check tuners)

  • Final shape the Headstock outline (belt + drum sander)

  • Re-mark C/L to underside

  • Mark Tuner hole positions;  mark and drill end-holes for the slots

  • Drill the roller holes (10.2 mm x 35 mm deep, c’bore 11.0 mm x10 mm deep)

  • Rout the slots

  • Check fit of tuners and relieve holes if required

  • Shape and ramp the slots

  • Cut Nut back-face (if needed)  [Top]

Assemble Heel and Neck-shaft
  • Flatten gluing faces and glue Heel-block to Neck-shaft

  • Mark centre-line on base of heel block and mark width-to-cut (Join width +2mm)

  • Band-saw heel (++) and neck-shaft (2+) to width;  clean-up sides of Heel

  • Reduce neck block height to depth at peak of Slipper-Heel

  • Mark Heel-Neck side profile and scribe front of Nut and Join

  • Cut inner and outer Heel shapes.  [Top]

Finish Heel
  • Mark wedge-slot widths at top and base of Heel with knife

  • Saw wedge slots to depth; saw across top of neck for Soundboard recess

  • Remove waste

  • Mark and cut Inner-heel widths (taper-cut on band-saw)

  • Finish inner Heel

  • Gouge trough in front of Heel (F9 1/2) and under F1 (++)

  • Thin the Neck between troughs (++)

  • Scribe precise widths of Neck at body-join on top and base of heel

  • Shape outer Heel ramps and finish on Neck/Heel width.  (+ at top of Neck)

  • Finish Heel shape (side-view)

  • Make trough at Heel into “neck-profile”

  • Carve outer Heel primary facets (++)

  • Carve secondary facets

  • Carve and sand outer heel to near-final shape

  • Finish outer Heel that butts to Sides (on-size at base, + at Fingerboard face)  [Top]

Prepare Front
  • Clean-up, match grain and join the Front plates

  • Mark and cut to the template outline

  • Select top and thickness-sand top face

  • Select Rosette

  • Mark C/L and Sound-hole centre

  • Position and tack Rosette;  scribe round Rosette

  • Cut Rosette channels

  • Inlay the Rosette

  • Scrape and sand Rosette

  • Cut Sound-hole part through

  • Scrape and sand outer surface of Front to finish (240)

  • Thickness-sand inner face of front, and fan braces, reinforcements etc. (see spec.)

  • Graduate thickness of Front  [Top]

Finish Front
  • Select the Front Brace-blanks and cut to size and length +10 mm

  • Plane and sand the Braces to size

  • Plane the curvature on front and waist bars

  • Glue reinforcements and flat plates to Front

  • Glue Fan-braces, cut-off bars and small braces to Front

  • Shape Fan -braces

  • Cut through and remove Sound-hole

  • Glue Fingerboard and waist bars to front to Front

  • Shape Front bracing

  • Tune the top  [Top]

Prepare Back
  • Clean-up plates and select outer faces.

  • Join the Back plates

  • Mark and cut Back to the template outline (+ 5 mm)

  • Thickness-sand outer face

  • Scrape and sand outer surface of Back to finish

  • Thickness the Back inner-surface  [Top]

Finish Back
  • Select the Brace-blanks and cut to size and length +10 mm

  • Plane and sand the Braces to size

  • Plane the curvature on each bar (sand to fit in hollow form)

  • Cut, shape and glue Back-seam re-enforcement

  • Mark and rout for Back decoration

  • Glue and scrape Back decoration

  • Shape, sand and relieve Back-seam re-enforcement at Brace positions

  • Glue Braces to the Back

  • Shape bracing (scallop later)  [Top]

Prepare Sides
  • Select Heel and Tail, inner faces and top edges and mark.

  • Thickness-sand the outer faces

  • Scrape and sand outer-faces of Sides to finish;  remark outer faces

  • Thickness-sand inner-faces to finished size  [Top]

Finish Sides
  • Shoot soundboard edges of Sides

  • Mark Side template outline and trim to size

  • Set-up building fixture (pillars and curvature template)

  • Bend Sides and clamp into fixture  [Top]

Prepare to Assemble
  • Make:  Wedges, Tail block, Tentellones, Kerfed back lining, Top Brace-end side struts, Side stiffeners

  • Check Neck-angle and make F1 plate (Neck-angle + rise in curvature)

  • Mark centre-line on inner face of front and sand outline to fit into fixture

  • Relieve brace-ends for Side thickness

  • Mark and cut Sides at Heel and Tail to fit into Heel slots and fixture

  • Fit the Wedges to the Neck and actual Sides and cut to length (- 3mm)

  • Place Front face down in fixture

  • Align Neck on centreline

  • Assemble sides and wedges and check fit

  • Mark heel and Tail-block heights on sides

  • Reduce height of sides at Heel and Tail  [Top]

Glue-up Assembly
  • Glue Neck onto Front (rubber wedge under soundboard)

  • Glue Sides into slots and (lightly) drive-in Wedges

  • Clamp sides to posts and down to Front

  • Align and glue Tail-block.

  • Glue Brace-end Side-braces

  • Glue in the Tentellones  [Top]

Prepare to fit Back
  • Saw-off wedges

  • Mark side profile from template; plane to line

  • Reduce Heel and Tail blocks to height (watch angles!)

  • Glue taper-block to slipper-heel if required

  • Plane and Sand to shape with Hollow-Form

  • Glue linings to the sides

  • Glue Side stiffeners

  • Sign and date the Front inside  [Top]

Fit Back
  • Check fit of Bridge-gluing caul on Front

  • Plane and Sand Sides/Linings to fit Back curvature (hollow-form)

  • Centre Back on assembly and mark Brace-ends and Kerfing

  • Cut back the braces ends to fit side thickness

  • Scallop the Back-braces

  • Relieve cross-banding at Heel and Tail-blocks

  • Notch the linings to accept the brace ends

  • Glue the Back onto the assembly  [Top]

Bind the Body
  • Plane, scrape and sand Front and Back edges flush with Sides

  • Sand any flats from Sides

  • Select Binding materials and glue bindings (if required) and scrape to size

  • Bend Bindings

  • Determine Binding ledge sizes

  • Mark Binding ledges with cutting gauge

  • Rout and level the binding ledges

  • Cut ledge for the Tail-graft

  • Cut Binding recesses at Heel

  • Make and glue Tail-graft and purfling

  • Trim Tail-graft to height; allow for mitres

  • Cut Bindings to length and chamfer inner and outer edges.  Check fit

  • Mitre end graft and binding and glue and tape in place

  • Glue and tape the Bindings

  • Scrape the bindings flush

  • Shape and glue heel-cap  [Top]

Prepare the Fingerboard
  • Select the Fingerboard and gluing surface

  • Mark top with outline, best centreline, Nut and end of Fingerboard positions.

  • Mark width (2+;  less bindings if bound Fingerboard) and cut to size

  • Plane scrape and sand gluing surface

  • Thickness-sand to final thickness  [Top]

Finish & Glue Fingerboard
  • Drill Fingerboard underside for screws and attach to slot-sawing carrier

  • Saw the fret slots

  • Taper the Fingerboard to final width

  • Cut and true Fingerboard at nut and end slots

  • Bind the Fingerboard

  • Prepare Nut blank to size

  • Fit Fingerboard against Nut

  • Shape the Sound-hole end of the Fingerboard

  • Align Fingerboard on neck and drill dowel holes

  • Flatten Soundboard under Fingerboard

  • Check Bridge height obtained

  • Glue the Fingerboard to the neck

  • Remove waste from sides of neck shaft flush with Fingerboard  [Top]

Make the Classical Bridge
  • Measure required Bridge height and establish Bridge size

  • Select billet.  Select glue face, top and front edges; mark outline.

  • Flatten gluing surface (base) and mark

  • Plane front square to base and mark

  • Saw and plane to width

  • Thin blank to required thickness (allow for curvature)

  • Shape underside to exact fit of top.

  • Mark centre-line, Bridge Saddle slot, tie-block and string-holes

  • Centre-pop and drill string-holes

  • Trim ends to length and square-off

  • Rout saddle slot, tie-block etc.

  • Remove waste & shape final plan contours

  • Drill 3 mm location-dowel holes in saddle slot

  • Finish and polish outer faces and wings  [Top]

Position & Fit Bridge
  • Mask Front

  • Locate the bridge (saddle position) on the soundboard

  • Attach and lay-out outer string lines

  • Confirm saddle position and correct compensation.

  • Clamp in place & scribe the bridge location

  • Drill two location-dowel holes through Front

  • Final fit bridge to top

  • Make dowels and glue into Bridge

  • Apply thin film of glue to Soundboard at Bridge position  [Top]

Finish the Fingerboard & Neck
  • Surface the Fingerboard, add relief and sand

  • Clean and check depths of fret slots

  • Decorate the Fingerboard

  • Fret the Fingerboard

  • Profile and polish frets and Fingerboard surface

  • Finish Neck shaping  [Top]

Finish Wood Surfaces
  • Sequence:- Headstock, Neck/Heel, Back, Sides, Front, Bindings, Sound-hole.

  • Fill in random gaps with stick shellac or cryo/sawdust

  • Fill end-gaps under frets

  • Initial sanding (240) (only hold with gloves from now !!)

  • Chamfer and round the bindings, Sound-hole, Head-stock and Fingerboard edges

  • Final sanding (320)

  • Raise grain on spruce/cedar

  • Sand again to 320  [Top]

Lacquer Finishing
  • Mask Fingerboard and Bridge area

  • Apply two wash-coats of lacquer all over; lightly sand and inspect for flaws and correct them

  • Apply base-coats of lacquer and let dry two days

  • Flat-out completely with 360 W&D used dry; clean-off

  • Apply Body-coats of lacquer and let dry two days

  • Flat-out with 600 W&D used dry; clean-off

  • Apply Finish-coats of lacquer and let dry seven days

  • Flat-out with 600 and 1200 W&D used wet; clean-off

  • Polish  [Top]

Final Fitting
  • Remove masking and clean-up the Fingerboard

  • Remove lacquer from Bridge area

  • Check Bridge alignment and glue-on Bridge

  • Make and fit Saddle to slot

  • Measure finished Bridge and Saddle height required and modify bridge-height if required

  • Bevel lacquer on any corners and fitting areas

  • Fit tuning machines

  • Fit Nut and Saddle

  • String-up

  • Set action at Nut and Saddle.  Check intonation.

  • Polish and oil Fingerboard

  • Apply maker's label

  • Final polish

  • Re-string and tune  [Top]

© 1998 - 2007 Roger A Williams
Roger Williams Guitars, Lichfield, England. Tel/Fax: 44(0)1543 262543
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